Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Food • Hottest cool treat? It isn’t ice cream

There’s nothing similarly proclaimed about the health benefits of the frozen yogurt at Tart (2128 S.E. Division St., 503-233-4333, but it certainly tastes healthy. Co-owner Ryan Spencer says it’s her favorite.

“The nonfat frozen yogurt is totally a home run with moms,” she says, “it’s super-refreshing on these hot days.” It doesn’t have the peculiar, tongue-coating viscosity associated with many soft-serve desserts. Plain, it’s simple and tangy. Spencer prefers to sweeten it up with honey and berries from her many tubs of yogurt toppings.

Spencer, who opened Tart on June 15 with her husband, artist Stuart Spencer, also is part owner of the breakfast and lunch diner Juniors (1742 S.E. 12th Ave.). While she’s little involved with the day-to-day operations there, she says, “it made me realize that I wanted a little place of my own. It was really fun being there with all the people.”

She started thinking about what might work. “I have a notorious sweet tooth so I really wanted a treat shop,” she says. A trip to New York introduced her to frozen custard, which she offers at Tart along with the yogurt. “It’s really popular with kids and dads,” she says, of the creamy, sweet and rich soft-serve.

So far the custard has been the biggest challenge to prepare. “It’s like hollandaise sauce. It will separate if you don’t get it right,” she says. It’s been perfect every time I’ve tried it.

The shop, located just off the seven-cornered heart of the Southeast neighborhood, reflects the Spencers’ devotion to the area. They’ve lived nearby for 15 years, now with their children, ages 6, 7 and 8. “I’m just making the place that I wanted to walk to with my kids,” Spencer says.

When the weather cools, Spencer plans to add high-end hot chocolates: Aztec with cinnamon and chile; white chocolate with lemon and lavender; and the Parisian, truly decadent hot chocolate.

Try the yogurt or custard Saturday, July 26, during the Division/Clinton Street Fair and children will have the opportunity to paint their hand prints on the walls.

Noon to 9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, noon to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Tart Website

Portland Tribune


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